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Bay
View Guesthouse Tel:
0408 067 824 Your
hosts: Caroline & Denis, |
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BVG |
History of |
Illustrated
Guide |
What our Guests |
Contact |
| The ONE - The ONLY - Definitive Guide to Stanley Everything you ever wanted to know about the best-kept secret in Tasmania. On this website, for the
first time in the 160 Million year history of Stanley,
we have put together text and pictures for your enjoyment and information. If you have questions that aren't answered here, email us and we'll try to find out for you. Please feel free to download pictures and print them for your own use. If you need full-size, high-resolution pics, please email us and we'll gladly supply them. We only ask that you do not use them for personal sale or for profit, and if you post them elsewhere on the ‘web, you give us credit for the originals. (© Denis & Caroline Backhouse. Bay View Guesthouse Stanley Tasmania.) 16 - 20 Alexander Terrace Stanley Tas. 7331 email: enquiries@bayviewguesthouse.com Web: www.bayviewguesthouse.com Winter in Stanley sees many shops and attractions close for a well-earned break - We have worked 24/7 all Summer, after all. It is wise to check with us or the Information Centre if you are planning a Winter holiday. |
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Hello, and welcome. This Guide started life in 2004, as a one-page walking guide to Stanley Visitors at our little 4–room guesthouse here in Stanley would go for a walk and return full of questions. As we tried to answer them, we discovered, amazingly, that nobody had ever compiled a guide to Stanley. As we (the Backhouse family) have ventured afield, we have noted places that interested us, and tried to capture some of the history, gossip and pictures surrounding each place. The Map, three pictures down, will let you work out where in Stanley each feature is. So ... If you are planning to visit Stanley, Tasmania, hopefully you will find whatever you want to know here on this page. If you can't find it, email and ask us and we'll find out for you. email to: enquiries@bayviewguesthouse.com
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| Unashamed Commercial .... That
said, we do
hope that you will choose to stay with us!
Caroline and I (Denis) have tried our very best to make the Bay View Guesthouse the sort of place that you would design if you could include all the amenities you love to experience whilst on holiday .... Hair
dryers, night lights, complimentary
tea, coffee, milk, sugar and nibblies. All our rooms have fully-tiled ensuites, lots of fluffy towels and queen-size beds (two rooms have twin single beds for non-couples). There are kitchenette facilities available for all rooms- Microwave, toaster, electric kettle and frypan, sink and utensils. And of course, plates, cups, knives and forks, etc. so you can eat in, or dine out as you wish. And we're only a few minutes walk from the centre of Stanley, so you can stroll out for dinner, enjoy a few drinks, and walk home. No taxi needed! And ... We live upstairs, so if you need us, we're there! Late check-ins are no problem, as long as you let us know in advance. (or you risk rousing Denis in his pyjamas ... Not
a Pretty Sight!)
Tel:
(03) 6458 1445
email: enquiries@bayviewguesthouse.com |
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Spring. We personally believe that Spring is the most glorious time in Tasmania. Late September to Christmas sees new growth on everything. Tulips, Lavender and Poppies are in abundance. Grass is emerald green and dams and rivers are full after winter rain. The weather can be changeable, but that is a small price to pay! Come Spring, our back garden – “The Bank” (as it slopes up to the Nut) is a riot of colour and full of birds, bees and bunnies - also Tasmania's little wallabies and possums. All regular evening visitors |
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| We open the Guide with answers to the most-often asked question
…
“What and Where to eat?”
Places to buy provisions …
You will meet all these and more as you
scroll through the Guide. (The Bay View Guesthouse is at reference
No. 11) Please be aware that many businesses close, |
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The first half of this walk, down Wharf Rd. to the “new” wharves and the foot of the Nut, takes about ½ hour as a round trip, non-stop The second half, to Godfreys Beach, takes less than an hour for the round trip. But unless you’re exercising, why not take your time? Stroll, look, talk to locals, refer to this guide, touch, smell, taste, and hear. Turn off your mobile ‘phone. Soak up the essence, the magic that is Stanley. So let’s set off … Leave the Bay View Guesthouse and turn left, down the
Terrace.
(You only have to look out for racing cyclists once a year!) |
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| Joe Lyons' Cottage. (Reference 12 on the Map) 14 Alexander Terrace. Right next door to the Bay View Guesthouse. Birthplace (15.9.1879) of Joseph Lyons, Tasmania’s only Prime Minister of Australia to date, serving from 1932 to 1939, just before the Second World War. Originally built by Joe's grandfather, Michael Lyons, a native of County Galway, Ireland, the cottage has been painstakingly restored and contains a wealth of memorabilia, both of Joe Lyons and early Stanley. Entry by gold coin donation. Please support the volunteers who keep this historic cottage open. (See also The Aunts Cottage, now Sally Collins’ massage therapy. 10 entries on.) |
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(left, Ca. 1855, photographed as the Ship Inn) |
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"The Poet."
Marguerite was awarded an Order of
Australia Medal on Australia Day, January 2011, for her Services to our Community. She celebrated her 90th. birthday this April (2011), still as sharp as a tack! |
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| Hursey's Seafood restaurant and takeaway. Under the Big Cray! The Hursey family make up a large part of Stanley’s fishing fleet. You’ll often see their boats at the Fishermen’s Wharf. Look for red & white boats with the big “H” painted on the bow. Cray, Abalone, Giant crabs, Scallops, Squid, Shark and Octopus make up the most valuable catches, plus seasonal finfish. Here, you can buy live cray and fin fish, various wet fish to cook yourself at home, or let Hursey's do the cooking whilst you enjoy the takeaway, or a sit-down in either the daytime restaurant, or Julie & Patrick's restaurant upstairs, after about 6pm. View live fish in the aquarium, to the right of the doorway. Tel:
(03) 6458 1103 |
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Stanley’s on the Bay Restaurant. (Reference 15 on the Map) In the old bluestone Bond Store (1859) On the waterfront next to the slipways. Taxable items were held under bond in Bond Stores, until excise was paid to the Government. Restaurant bookings recommended, as it’s a very popular eatery. Tel:
(03) 6458 1404 |
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Slipways and old wharf. (Reference 16 on the Map) The original landing spot of the Tranmere in 1827, for the Van Diemans Land Company at settlement of Stanley. Sheltered from some of Bass Strait’s wild weather, but unable to serve larger vessels as it dries out at low tide. As shipping increased and ships got larger, the “New Wharf” was constructed using rock blasted from the Nut, and concrete blocks as breakwaters. The slipways are now privately owned by the Hursey family. Below are a couple of
images of winter storms, (taken from the safety of our upstairs window!) showing the calmer water around the wharf, where the Nut offers protection. |
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Old Highfield lighthouse. (There's the Bay View Guesthouse, pumpkin coloured,
in the left background!) |
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The Van Diemans Land Company Store. (Reference 18 on map) Now @VDL, a privately owned guesthouse. Built in 1843 as the major port facility for the Van Diemans Land Company. Over its long history, it has seen many uses, ranging from a fish factory to a place of detention. Rescued from dereliction in the 1990s by Mark Bishop and Toby Muir-Wilson as Stanley Artworks, which they established as their gallery. In 2003, Mark & Toby's gallery relocated to the old De Jonge Store, in Church Street, as Stanley Artworks. (see more about them, below) Tel: David on 0437 070 222
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Old Wiltshire Railway Station (now reception for the Stanley Village motel). Was moved from Wiltshire (4 to 5 km along Bass Highway, heading to Burnie ) when the railway closed. Tip. Walk around the Bay side of the motel, as there is no footpath on busy Wharf Road around the corner from Hurseys. Pass between the Professional Fisherman’s building and Stanley’s On the Bay Restaurant and follow the path around the waterfront. The walking path roughly follows the line of the old Stanley Port railway, and you will see remnants of the old lines down at the wharf. Back the other way, the lines ran through what is now the caravan park and along the waterfront where the Stanley Showgrounds are now. Fire Brigade HQ is now on the old Stanley railway station site. Stanley
Village Motel Tel: (03) 6458 1404 |
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Sally Collins Massage Therapy is just around the corner from Hurseys. Sally has restored, and lives with her family in what is known as “The Aunts' Cottage”. (Joe Lyons’ Aunts with whom he lived as a boy ~ 1885) Stay on the main road as you turn left around Hurseys Seafoods, and you’ll see Sally’s shingle hanging in front of the little red house. (reference 14 on the map)
for genuine therapeutic massage, call Sally on (03) 6458 1316 |
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Stanley Cool Stores. Big green, windowless tin building on your left across the road as you approach the Fishermens Dock. Originally built to cater for frozen freight sailing from the New Wharf and from the Roll On/Roll Off (RO/RO) wharf. More recently used as overflow storage for McCains, Smithton. Now empty since McCain Foods closed in 2010. |
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| Stanley Seaquarium. Opposite the Cool Store, down on the wharf. Interesting displays of local marine life. Giant crabs and Cray (in season) in holding tanks awaiting export. Small shark and other interesting and unusual Tasmanian fish in viewing tanks. Children will enjoy the handling tank, with a variety of interesting creatures, including eels, octopus and hermit crabs, who regularly change “house”. (Take a towel, as the kiddies will get wet!) About $25 for a family entry. They also sell uncooked and frozen seafood including crayfish (in season), Stanley’s own Tasmanian Octopus Products, and souvenirs. Tel:
(03) 6458 2052
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Seal Cruises. Depart from the Fishermen’s Dock just across from the Seaquarium. The trip goes around the Nut, across Godfrey's Bay past the Cow & Calf rocks and around Highfield Point to Bull Rock. Seals haul out and bask on Bull Rock, around from the Green Hills. Note how the seals and seabirds divide up the rock between them, and observe how much cleaner the seals’ end of the rock is! The seals really appreciate Darryl bringing tourists out to break the monotony of eating fish and sunbaking. They’ll swim right up to the boat to have a look! Cruises usually go twice a day, morning and afternoon, but please check, as seasons and weather conditions determine whether or not cruises are able to set out. Bookings are always recommended, as the cruises are very popular. About $50 pp. Darryl sometimes does fishing trips around the Bay. Ask him if you are interested. Tel:
(03) 6458 1294 mob: 0419 550 134
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Seal cruise vessel Sylvia C. at Seal Rock | ||||
Darryl and Heather also run "Stanley Dockside", a bright, seasidey little cafe right next to the Seal Cruise wharf. Open from 8am. for breakfast until 8pm. (or later, on demand!) the cafe is perfect for a little sit after walking to the end of Wharf Road and looking at the Fisherman's Dock and the Wharf complex. It is also one of the few places you can get "just" a coffee after 5pm, without having to go into a sit-down restaurant! And Heather's all-day pancakes are to die for! The cafe is also "kiddie - friendly" with Peanut butter, Vegemite, Cheese or Fairy Bread sandwiches always available - and of course, ice creams! Tel:
(03) 6458 1294 mob: 0419 550 134
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Fishermen’s Dock, just back from the RO/RO loader. You’ll often see loads of abalone, scallops, shark and crayfish coming ashore. Usually at least a couple of historic wooden boats moored there too. Often excellent rod or handline fishing from the jetties on the ocean side of the dock, the wharf in front of the Cool Stores and the long wharf behind the breakwater - barracouta, mackerel, squid, trevally, flathead, whiting, depending upon the season. Stay off the boats, and don't get in the way of anybody working there! |
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StanleyFish at the end of the dock. (A division of Craig Mostyn) You may walk across the head of the dock in front of their building, but exercise extreme caution if fishermen are unloading their catch as hoists and forklifts will be operating and the deck may be wet and slippery. Early mornings during the scallop season, you will sometimes see scallop shells coming out on the waste conveyor, being crushed and conveyed up into a disposal skip. Tel:
(03) 6458 1153 Mob: 0417 278 109
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In a rather more moody shot (courtesy of Darren Gorringe) here's some of the fleet resting in the harbour after a Melbourne to Stanley yacht race. This is an October qualifier for the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and often attracts some very serious sailpower to Stanley! |
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At the end of the road is the “new” wharf (no longer used by shipping) and the disused roll on/roll off (RO/RO) loading ramp. (pic. right) Excellent fishing at times. Spectacular wave break when strong Easterlies are blowing. A snippet of history…In the 1920s when rock from the Nut blast was placed in the water to reinforce the old breakwater, local newspaper, “The Chronicle” waxed lyrical, claiming “A breakwater to last a hundred years”. (Has "purple prose" newspaper reporting ever really changed?) About a fortnight later, a ferocious Easterly storm all but destroyed it! ...... |
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..... And even with the placement of hundreds of tonnes of engineer-designed concrete blocks, you will observe that the end of the wharf is twisted and buckled way out of level. During winter storms, this would have been a miserable place to work with spray and spume blowing right over the wharf! The wharfies of 70 or 80 years ago didn’t have the good wet weather gear available today. Spare a thought for them humping coal or potatoes in hundredweight sacks (approx 50kg.). |
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The bluff face of the Nut looms behind you at this point. In 1892 an attempt was made to blast rock from the vertical face, to be used to reinforce the breakwater. The day of the detonation drew a crowd who were disappointed to see nothing but a cloud of dust and smoke spurt from the drillings where literally tons of dynamite had been set. It was another twelve years before the rock finally fractured enough to shear off. Fortunately the fall occurred before work in the early morning, and no lives were lost although some mill buildings were damaged. This story is told on the interpretive sign at the lookout directly above this point, on the top of the Nut. The Osborne Aviation helicopter captured here (2010) is ferrying gravel in bags to re-surface the walking track around the top of the Nut, which now boasts a magnificent all-weather surface. Osborne Aviation also run "Joy Flights" around Stanley and Circular Head. There is no seaward path around the foot of the Nut. Tel.
Osbornes at: (03) 6458 3434
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Walk back to the Bay View Guesthouse and continue up Alexander Terrace toward the town centre. Alexander Terrace was THE desirable address right from the first land releases by the Van Diemans Land Company in the 1840s, and many substantial houses were built along the Terrace. Some are still private homes, and others are B & Bs. Captain’s Cottage is about the oldest, built in 1835. Interestingly, the dormer windows have, on occasion, been held up as icons of period Stanley architecture!! In fact, the then owner put them in when he built in bedroom space for his two daughters, only some 20 - 30 years ago! The period style is spot on. (see our old Ship Inn pic.) The construction dating (by certain so-called experts!) is not! |
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Walking up the Terrace, views across Tatlow’s Beach to Eastern Inlet. Public toilets are adjacent to the caravan park, down on the beach. Church Street runs parallel below the Terrace. There you’ll see - The Breakfast Bar. Serves breakfast from around 7.30am. Everything from toast and cereal to a full cooked breakfast. Excellent value. Be sure to tell John or Barry & Colleen, that you’re staying at the Bay View. Tel:
(03) 6458 1414
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(Denis loves their Eggs Benedict!) |
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As you look out of the window of the Breakfast Bar, the sweep of Tatlows Beach is right below you. This used to be the main "road" into Stanley from the turnoff. The railway line ran along much of what is now the road into town. There have been a couple of notable wrecks on Tatlows Beach - The brig Valiant in 1868 and the barque Wild Wave in 1923. The shifting sands come and go and sometimes reveal the last remains of the wrecks, both quite close to each other. Shown here are the remains of the Valiant. They lie almost directly below the vehicular entry track to Tatlows Beach, at the Showgrounds entrance. Wild Wave lies close by, with just a few of her iron ribs protruding from the sand. |
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The shifting sands of Sawyers Bay expose the remains of the wreck of the brig Valiant that was driven ashore in storm winds in September 1868. Attempts to refloat her were of no avail, and she was eventually broken up for salvage on the beach where her remains now lay. Twenty years before, Valiant had come out of her builder's yards at Annapolis, New Brunswick. Her bottom was sheathed in Muntz Metal, an alloy of brass and zinc widely used by American shipyards of the day to resist marine borers and weedy growths that slowed the ships. Thin sheets of the brassy alloy were beaten around the wooden hull and secured with nails. Today, all that remains are the keel and a few jagged bottom timbers half-buried in the sand. Scraps of Muntz Metal are still attached to the the bottom. The wreck is located at the waters edge at dead low tide, just below Agathers Cottage on Marine Esplanade. |
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Stanley Post Office, and attached “Stamps of Stanley” accommodation. The Post Office is run the way you might expect a country town post office should be, where the postmasters know everybody and have time to chat. “Stamps of Stanley”, their B&B, is the doorway to the right of the pic. Stanley retains one of the very few traditional red wooden telephone boxes in Australia. Tel:
(03) 6458 1109
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The
Stanley Golf Club (9 holes. Par 66) is just a couple of
blocks down behind the PO at the very end of Marine Esplanade.
There are clubs for hire and very reasonable green fees.
Open 7.30am to dark. (There’s an Honesty Box if you want to play real early! When did you last see THAT at a mainland club?) Bar facilities open 3.00pm. Friday night socials and chook raffles. Good small-town fun! Tel: (03) 6458 1395 |
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Here's the back end of the golf course. You play up one side, and back down the other. The biggest hazard is Plovers who think they own the links and protest loudly and unmusically when you trespass on their turf! |
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Directly opposite the Post Office is the beginning of the Nut Walking Track. You can see the zig-zag just left of centre on the Nut. The buildings just to the right of the Track are the Chairlift and Nut Rock Cafe, with car and 'bus parking. The track isn't as steep as it looks in this pic! And there are handrails to haul yourselves along. Allow ½ hr. from here to the top (unless you’re taking the chair lift), and about an hour to walk around the top. There are good interpretive boards, and you’ll enjoy the best views in the Northwest. |
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A 2009 photo of Stanley Artworks gallery. Sadly, now closed. It was at one time acclaimed as "the best Tasmanian craft gallery outside of Hobart"! This pic shows the unmistakeable “pumpkin yellow” store front with striped awnings that was formerly the De Jonge Store, one of two general stores serving old Stanley. Owners of the building, Mark Bishop and Toby Muir-Wilson, may still sometimes be found in the workshop at the RH, town end of the building. (visits by appointment only.) Smell the Huon pine! Tel:
Mark at (03) 6458 2000
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The Brown Dog Gallery. Now occupies most of the space where Artworks was. “Homewares” doesn’t do justice to the contents! Cushions, candles, soaps, books. Many of those hard-to-find finishing touches that will grace your home or make a great gift. Excellent coffee. Tel: David on 0437 070 222
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The Old Bake House now houses the gallery of Alice Langridge Photography. Alice and her partner farm on the Green Hills and her photography from that site captures many moods of Stanley. The building once housed Stanley's Bakery ... Aahhhh! Those were the days! Incidentally, Bill Mollison's parents were bakers here, just post-war. (Bill of Permaculture fame) The shop now houses an eclectic mix of "hippie" retro clothing, souvenirs, natural soaps and candles, as well as a selection of groceries and fresh "barn" eggs. Alice's salad bar and hot crusty bread may well tempt you in to sit and people-watch whilst you nibble. She also does soft-serve ice cream and “Real Beans” coffee to sustain you whilst you browse. |
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Stanley Supermarket is down Victoria St. then left and across Main Road.. Newsagency, Groceries, deli, etc. Also hot takeaway food and caravan gas bottle exchange. DVD hire. (You can rent DVD players from the Cabin & Caravan Park, next door, depending upon availability) |
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Just to the left of the Supermarket is the caravan, camping and cabin park. Also Backpackers. A great favourite with Tasmanians who come every year to school holiday. Laundry facilities available for all travellers. Also free septic disposal for caravans and mobile homes. (in front of the Public Toilets, just off-pic. left.) Really busy December to
Easter. Tel: (03) 6458 1266 |
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Walk across Victoria Street from the newsagency, to the Stanley Hotel. Dating back to 1847, the old pub has been significantly restored in recent years, and is a popular watering hole. Award-winning bistro meals (Best small bistro in Australia - two years running!) are available, and there’s a gift shop selling an extensive range of items. The historic convict-dug bottle shop cellar is worth a look, even if you’re not buying grog! Originally called “The Emily Hotel” from 1849 to 1858, when it was then briefly licensed as the Freemasons Hotel. It became the Union Hotel in 1867 (reference 20 on the map) |
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| Across Church Street and Alexander Terrace at this point are a picturesque group of historic shops and the War Memorial … Far too many sad losses from a town that never had a population much over 500. Diggers from many conflicts gather here on Remembrance Day each year. |
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Olde Chocolate Shoppe. If you have a sweet tooth, this is the place for you. Shelves of lollies in glass barrels, in a convincing replica of a turn-of-the-century sweet shop, plus a vast array of ice cream flavours to choose from. The Swingin’ Anchor Café adjoining is open for all day breakfast, morning and afternoon teas, and delicious lunches. Bernie & Ellie also sell Bernie's famous "BernieBurgers" that have won awards at agricultural shows around Tasmania and the mainland. Tel:
(03) 6458 1455
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The "Chin Wag" Cafe. Good, inexpensive food, and the log fire when the weather’s coolish make this a cosy place to eat. Barb. makes yummy sticky-ickies plus open grills, nachos, wraps, toasted sandwiches soup and dips. There are also fresh Sushi a couple of times a week. There's also takeaway if you have to eat on the run. Enter from the driveway to the left of the pic., under the cafe umbrella. Tel:
(03) 6458 2087
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Whilst you’re on this side of the road … The Town Hall. Art Deco building, begun in 1911, still used for community and cultural events. Recently refurbished interior, preserving the Art Deco style. Has public toilets open during daylight hours. (up the alley to the right of the building.) |
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Hearts ‘n Crafts. Off to the left of the Town Hall steps. Outlet for local crafts. Run by volunteers. Find that special gift. Well worth a look, as local crafties maintain a rolling stock that changes by the week. |
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Two fine old bank buildings at 12 and 14 Church St., the former Commonwealth and ANZ banks. (right and below) |
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They are now both privately owned as residences. They date from around the same time as the Town Hall, although the National Bank of Tasmania bought the land in 1887, and had a timber building there before 1905. |
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Xanders Restaurant. Fine dining at reasonable prices. Check the menus. Bookings advisable. Also Tasmanian wine sales. (Xander is the owner’s grandson.) Our guests bring back rave reviews. Tel:
(03) 6458 1111
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Sticks “n Stones, Shells ‘n Bones Gallery. A treasure-trove of interesting and unusual items, including handmade jewellery. Continually changing stock themes. Tel:
(03) 6458 1133
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Touchwood Restaurant and Gallery. (Original cottage, ca. 1842) Great coffee and food. Ask about their special of the day. The gallery is a treat for all the senses. Don’t miss the exquisite little carved birds. (seen below) One of our favourite places (in case you hadn't guessed!) The pale green house behind Touchwood is a restoration belonging to John Stronach, award-winning Stanley builder. We've
included extra pics here, below, because
no single one did the gallery justice! Touchwood also has accommodation down the back, with views out over the Bay. Tel: (03) 6458 1348 |
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Plough Inn (35 Church St.) Est. 1840. For many years, Stanley boasted four pubs. (Commercial, Plough, Stanley and Bay View.) The Plough Inn is now a private residence. |
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Directly across from the Plough Inn is the gallery of David Murphy. Art jewellery, fine art and photographs by David and selected artists. Note too the Nut Track zig-zagging up the Nut behind the gallery. The tiny dot on the third leg is actually somebody walking up. The Nut, and the Green Hills under which Stanley nestles, are all that is left of an extinct volcano said by the experts to date from 160 million years ago. They are the reason Stanley exists, as they provided the only sheltered harbour for sailing vessels that allowed the Van Diemans Land Company to take possession of their landholdings in the North-West of Tasmania in the early 1800s. Tel:
(03) 6458 1476 |
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Discovery Centre and Museum. A fascinating collection of memorabilia from Stanley’s history, maintained by an enthusiastic group of volunteers, some of whom are a living part of that history! Local genealogy information available. Note that the little building, the original Anglican Parish Hall, was unable to withstand the Bass Strait gales that howl up from the beach, and had to be braced externally with steel buttresses. $3 entry. Well worth it!
(reference 1 on the map)
There are public toilets up the back, around to the right of the building |
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St. Paul’s Anglican Church. (1842.) Just to the right of the Discovery Centre. Sit quietly inside and feel the peace within this beautiful wooden building, with its magnificent stained glass, or attend a Sunday service. If it’s closed, ask the staff at the Discovery Centre. They usually have a key. (reference 2 on the map) |
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Providore 24 (24 Church St). A must-see emporium, directly across from the Discovery Centre. Some very interesting foods, local honey on the comb, body lotions and potions etc. Shoes, dresses, postcards, scarves .... Often fresh, home-baked bread. (Denis says their olive bread is to die for!) Tel:
(03) 6458 1323
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Walk up Fletcher Street to St. James Presbyterian Church. (1854-5) (reference 3 on the map) Reportedly the oldest prefabricated building in Tasmania. Purchased in England as a prefabricated “kit” church for $290. Final cost on site and erected, about $800. Freight from UK to Launceston $100, Launceston to Stanley $25. |
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Just a few steps further, at the bend in Fletcher St. you’ll see the memorial and headstone for Mary Bogue and her infant son David, drowned just off the Nut in 1851 when their small boat was capsized in a freak squall. Mary was a native Tasmanian, married to David Howie. Interestingly NOT buried in the "consecrated ground" of the cemetery of the day! Recent research has shown such squalls, spinning off the Nut, are common just where Mary drowned. A tragic combination of landscape and weather. (reference 4 on the map) |
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| Back on Church St., across from Pearce Street, is the old Freemasons Lodge (1918), now “The Lodge”, tourist accommodation. Tel:
0437 983 610
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Down Pearce St., on the corner of Pearce and Cripps Sts. is the heritage-listed Church of England (now Anglican) Rectory - or more correctly, 'Parsonage'. Built in 1843 for the newly arrived minister the Reverend Thomas N. Grigg and his family, the Parsonage originally had an extended garden which is now 12 Pearse St. and an adjacent parcel of land for the use of the parson, known as 'The Parson's Acre'. The Rectory served as home to Anglican ministers from 1843 to 1983, when the Church decided that Stanley no longer warranted a full-time Rector, and sold off the properties. Interestingly, it required an Act of Parliament - the Anglican Church of Australia (Stanley Parsonage) Act 1984 - to determine ownership of the property prior to sale. From 1985, the Rectory has been a private residence. (reference
5 on the map)
Thanks
to D & C Bovis, current owners, for this information.
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Two hundred metres down Pearce Street on your left, is the old Stanley School. Now a private residence. The stonework is unusual for Stanley, in that it is all dressed (squared off). Most stone buildings in Stanley use random stones in "as found" condition, simply mortared together. eg. the VDL Store, Bay View Guesthouse, even much of Highfield. The Education Department of the day clearly meant for this building to last! (reference 6 on the map) Down the hill and across the road is the current Stanley Primary School. 40 – 50 students in Kinder and two composite classes. |
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The low-lying land across from the Primary School, now under houses, was the site of the very first experimental Permaculture plantation in Australia. Bill Mollison gathered a small but enthusiastic group of like minded folk around him and proved his principles before taking Permaculture to the world. On his website, Bill says .... "We began in 1978 as a community
of people who worked and lived on eighty acres of swamp land in
Stanley, Tasmania, researching & experimenting with Permaculture
concepts. The development of sustainable design principles began
here & together with the establishment of the Permaculture
Institute, was the catalyst for the birth of the Permaculture
ethic, which has since spread worldwide." |
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The Permaculture Institute now has a permanent “model farm” and training centre just up the coast at 31 Rulla Rd. Sisters Creek. When Bill's not travelling the world lecturing, he may often be found here. |
http://www.tagari.com will get you to the Permaculture Institute website and their Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WOOFERS) info. (But please return here, there's lots more about Stanley still to come!) |
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Back up on Church Street, diagonally across from the Discovery Centre and the Anglican Church is the old Commercial Hotel. The building was first built by the VDL Company in 1842, as accommodation and office. In 1849, it was licensed as an hotel. Now a private residence. |
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Turn right into Marshall St. To the foreground right, in this view taken from upper Brown St, is the red brick Star of the Sea Catholic Church (1931) overlooking Godfrey's Beach - Stanley's surf beach. To its left, the pink house with dormers and chimneys is Hanlon House, the old Catholic manse (1904), now a B & B. Named after Fr. Hanlon, the last Catholic priest to live there. Hanlon
House B&B Tel: (03) 6458 1149
On the hill at the top left of the picture you can glimpse "Highfield", the headquarters of the VDL Co. (more pics of Highfield just a little further down the page.) |
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At the beach end of Marshall St. the historic Stanley Burial Ground nestles under the Nut. First burial, 1827. Interpretive board in the cemetery. (but not totally accurate!) The Discovery Centre has a book of internments that is reported to be more accurate. (reference
9 on the map) |
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Drive up Browns Road to the Nut Rock Café and the Nut Chair Lift. Watch for tour buses coming down the narrow, winding Browns Rd.! No visit to Stanley is complete without going up the Nut. The walk is steep, but well paved and has handrails. Or there’s the chair lift for around $10 a person return. The walk around the top takes about an hour. (Done clockwise, it’s an easier walk.) Fantastic views of the Bass Strait islands and Stanley. Interesting interpretive boards. Be sure to take along your camera. Ice cream, souvenirs, and cool drinks at the Café for a well-earned break after the trek. Toilets at the café. This pic. shows the Nut Rock Cafe, with the Chairlift Terminal to the left. One of the chairlift owners told us that this is about the safest chairlift in the world, as it is so short compared to many European lifts. The cables, towers etc. are therefore enormously understressed compared to their design limits and usage elsewhere in the world. And ... you are only about 20 feet (6 metres) off the ground at any time. When the vegetation is high, your toes almost scrape the tops of the bushes! Have your camera ready on the descent, as the views over Stanley are magnificent. (see images below) *Important Note … No toilets or drinking water available on top of the Nut! Both are available in the Nut Rock Cafe.* Nut Rock Cafe Tel: (03) 6458 1186 Chairlift Tel: (03) 6458 1286 |
 Below are a couple of views of Stanley from the Nut. The Slipways (left) and (right) Stanley Town with the imposing reddish-brown Stanley Hotel at centre. |
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Godfreys Beach, just down from the cemetery. Sometimes good surf. Often rips, so be sure to exercise caution when swimming. Spotless sandy beach with rocky headlands and rock pools.
The Garibaldi plaque mentioned below is the white vertical "stripe" just above the mid panel of the car park fence. |
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An amazing bit of Tassie Trivia in the park at Godfreys Beach! In exile in the mid-1800's, after the French took Rome, Garibaldi
became a seagoing merchant. An Italian merchant, and friend,
Pietro Denegri, gave him command of his ship Carmen for
a trading voyage across the Pacific. Garibaldi took the Carmen to the Chincha Islands for a load of guano. Then on 10 January 1852, he sailed from Peru for Canton, China, arriving in April.[4] After side trips to Amoy and
Manila, Garibaldi brought the Carmen back to Peru via the
Indian Ocean and the South Pacific, passing clear around the south
coast of Australia. He visited Three Hummocks Island in Bass Strait,
presumably for fresh water and possibly green vegetables.
No reason is given as to why he didn't come into Stanley, although
it was well established by then. |
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Drive up to Highfield on the headland beyond Godfrey’s Beach. Historic HQ of the VDL Company. Entry fees aid ongoing restoration. The old derelict convict barracks at the ‘elbow” at the top of the road make a great spot for photos. At certain times of the year, as the sun moves into evening, a dramatic bearded aboriginal face appears from the crags and crevices on the Nut. (almost clear here, just to the left of the white chimneys. This pic was taken in Mid-August around 2.30pm.) Right in front of the old barracks ruin is the perfect place to see it, or at the hairpin turn at the top of Highfield Hill. Pics of Highfield below are ... Harvest Festival with Citroen 2CV (left) and ... Highfield entry drive from first floor window (right) |
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| Nearby places we love to visit. |
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Mawbanna
is well worth the half-hour drive from Stanley. There are
three main attractions - All worth seeing.
Guests who stay with us at the Bay View, each get a free print copy of our Guide to Stanley, containing full driving instructions to find these attractions. |
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The Big Tree, Mawbanna ... An ancient "Stringybark", probably Eucalyptus regnans. It is said that Australia's eucalypts could have once been the tallest trees in the world, topping the USA's sequoias. Together,close relatives Eucalyptus regnans, E.obliqua, and E.delegatensis are known collectively as "Tasmanian Oak", and are highly valued as a cabinet timber, Indeed, they are aggressively marketed as such by Forestry Tasmania. Which is kinda interesting, as "Stringybark" was once acceptable only as rough lumber for timber framing, and was well known for distorting as it dried. (Denis is a retired carpenter, and remembers working with it "green", as it was terrible to work once dry.) Forestry Tasmania, University of Tasmania, and several millers discovered that if you rough saw the lumber a little oversize, air dry it for several months, recondition it in steam kilns and finally machine it to finished size, it becomes stable, and with modern tooling and cutting materials, is readily worked and resembles finest european oak. All it then needed was a marketable name to distance it from "Stringybark"! "Tasmanian
Oak"
The rest, as they say,
is history! |
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Just 2km away from the Big Tree, Dip Falls comprises hexagonal basalt columns that break the falling water into shimmering cascades. There is a picnic ground with toilets at the bridge, just above the falls. From the picnic grounds, a track and steps winds down to the foot of the falls, where the pic. (below, right) was taken. There is easy wheelchair access to a lookout at the top of the falls, from which the pic. on the left was taken. |
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Tasmania is the only place in the world where Leatherwood Honey is produced. Its origins, in the world’s cleanest air and water, means that Blue Hills Leatherwood Honey can truly make a claim to be one of the world’s premium honeys. Blue Hills harvest their honey from one of the most untouched and natural regions of the world, the Tarkine forest. The Tarkine, located in Tasmania's far North West, is the largest temperate rainforest area in Australia and one of the largest in the world covering approximately 3,800 square kilometres (1,500 sq mi).The region is wild and untamed. To walk in the vibrant understorey of its primeval rainforests is to glimpse the depth and magic of the natural world. "Once you have been to the heart of the Tarkine you will never forget the view of the Leatherwood trees with their rose-like white flowers cascading over the untamed wild rivers. The smells of the nectar permeate the dense forest. The magnificent red and gold hues of the majestic myrtle forests are a sight to behold. No one could deny a need to preserve and treat with respect such a special place". (Robbie Charles: Beekeeper and Blue Hills' owner) The foundation of Blue Hills Honey, the company and its products, is its relationship to this unique Tasmanian environment. They are the only apiary in the heart of this pristine environment. Only 600 to 1200 tonnes of this extraordinary nectar is produced annually. Whilst Blue Hills produces a range of honeys including Tasmanian Manuka, Meadow, Blackberry, and Prickly Box, its flagship product is Leatherwood Honey. |
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Open Feb to May, Flowerdale Lobster Haven is home to the giant freshwater crayfish, unique to the streams of northern Tasmania. See this gentle monster in nursery streams and several in-ground viewing ponds. Individuals of over 5 kg in weight, over 80 cm long and probably over 80 years old were caught in the past, but now, individuals over 2 kg are rare. They are now totally protected. Set on a landscaped hillside overlooking Flowerdale River Valley, the Haven features a waterfall & manferns. Enjoy a rest and a cuppa in the tearoom, featuring favourite dishes made from cherries grown in the proprietor's famous orchard. From Highway 1, take the Flowerdale turnoff and drive 2.5 km. inland to 241 Robin Hills Rd. Flowerdale.Tel: (03) 6442 2800
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 Tasmanian giant freshwater crayfish Astacopsis gouldi |
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On the drive to Burnie or Launceston, one of our favourite cafes to break the trip is Two Oaks at Wynyard. When videos killed drive-in theatres, Two Oaks cafe and gallery
was built on the site of the old Wynyard drive-in by a retired
couple, working on a shoestring budget. ...then stay and eat! |
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| Servings are generous (see pic. right), the coffee is good
and the staff are courteous and friendly. Many locals regularly
eat there, as you'll see if you stay for lunch! ... And the giftware and knick-nacks
are amazing (see below)
Tel:
(03) 6435 1431 |
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To the West of Stanley, the Arthur River meets the Western Ocean. Somehow the old sea-dogs used to navigate their tiny 300-tonners under nothing but sail, into this hazardous river mouth! The channel runs left-to-right directly under this headland. It's the blue water. All the rest is white foam from the breaking shallows! Nearby Marrawah has a cafe, pub and petrol station. Just upstream, Arthur River cruises take you inland along the Arthur, through blackwood forests and dense riverine rainforest. You will hear the history of the area, and along the way you will see and feed a pair of long-time resident white sea eagles. You'll be wined and dined too! Our guests come back raving about this trip! Choice of two boats ... Arthur River Cruises. Tel: (03) 6457 1158 ... or ... Arthur River Reflections. Tel (03) 6457 1288 |
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Just around the headland (turning left) from the Arthur River mouth is the Edge of The World ... Pretty much the westernmost tip of Tasmania. As we look out at this gathering storm, there is nothing (much) between here and Argentina - Half the circumference of the Earth at the latitude of the Roaring 40's! You are below Cape Town, South Africa, (34° South) and there are only tiny isolated (and bloody cold!) islands a little to the South of your path. Kergulen (49° South), Crozet (46° South)and eventually the Falklands, (Islas Malvinas if you are Argentinian! ) (52° South). If you were able to sail West, along Tasmania's latitude of approx 42° South, you would make landfall (eventually!) somewhere near Gulfo san Mateus in Argentina. But since the Roaring Forties mostly blow the other way, you'd probably have no choice but to go East and wind up in somewhere unpronouncable in Chile! |
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Reknowned Tasmanian poet, Brian Inder visited here and felt moved to write this poem, now cast in brass and mounted at the Edge of the World. I cast my pebble onto the shore of Eternity To be washed by the Ocean of Time. It has shape, form and substance. It is me. One day I will be no more, But my pebble will remain here On the shore of Eternity, Mute witness for the aeons That today I came and stood At the edge of the World. Yeah!
Denis wipes eyes that have suddenly become leaky! Must be the cool breeze! ... The place does that to you. |
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| Foxgloves at Allendale Gardens.  |
Loraine and Max Cross have poured almost three
decades of love into these gardens. Six acres of landscaped
gardens invite an easy stroll around the creek, and 65 acres of
rainforest nurtures a longer walk. Goats, emu, peacocks (and 'hens), exotic fowl, puppies abound around
the place. Max has DVDs for purchase, of the gardens in
all seasons, captured in his fine photography. ... and don’t miss the Devonshire tea
with Max’s homemade jam. Take the Irishtown turnoff at Gunns Timbers,
just before Smithton. About 12 km along look for Blanche
Road on the right. Well signposted. About 35
minutes drive from Stanley. Say "Hi" to Max and Loraine from us.
They are good friends. Tel: (03) 6456 4216 |
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Smithton. Smithton is Circular Head's shopping town, some 22 km West of Stanley.
They had their own up-to-date steam sawmills powered by mill waste, and a quarter-mile long wharf over the mud flats that allowed ships to dock at all tides. Amusingly, a much longer jetty downriver, built in 1903, would regularly catch fire from embers dropped from Lee's strange little vertical-boilered locomotive 'Coffee Pot' as it passed along the mile-long timber pier. A 'local boy' was apparently employed to follow Coffee Pot with a bucket of water to extinguish these frequent small fires! Joseph Lee was by contemporary accounts an intensely political animal, and roused great ire in Stanley by his petitions to have the Duck River developed into a deep-water port with government assistance. This was seen as a direct affront to Stanley port, and an attempt to divert government money toward Smithton. Such was the enmity that in 1890, Stanley people burned Lee 'in effigy', on the side of the Nut. The demonstration was apparently wasted upon Lee, as an account of the incident has him ... "amongst the foremost of the spectators at the 'burning', taking as much delight as the most bitter of his opponents". As more and more money circulated through Leesville/Smithton, Stanley's two Banks followed the money to Smithton, closely followed by the local Council who abandoned Stanley Town Hall for Smithton premises. Rivalry thus developed between Stanley and Smithton that simmers up to the present day. Witness a present-day AFL match or a hockey game between the two if you don't believe me! For a fascinating
and detailed account of the history of both towns, see 'Against the Tide' - A Maritime History of Circular
Head
by Kerry Pink and Gill Vowles (1998) - published by Hobart Ports Corporation. Available in shops at Stanley & Smithton. |
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Whist you are in Smithton, don’t miss internationally acclaimed Edward Dyas’ art in Brett Dawes’ Ace Kodak shop and One Wall Gallery at the top of Smith St. Smithton, just down from the roundabout. Edward is a miniaturist, but also works in other media. Some of his creations are straight out of 'left field', as this Mardi Gras dress shows. It is created from discarded photo printing colour ribbons from Brett's Kodak photo printing machine! Edward is internationally reknowned for his bird studies, in miniature and full -size, as shown below right. Other local artisans and craftworkers are on show (pic. below). Brett is a talented photographer in his own right, and many of his studies are around the gallery. His fine framing also displays many other artist's works. Coffee is available to sustain you whilst you browse. Coffee shop, 'Time Out on Emmett', also regularly features art exhibitions by local artists and photographers. Ace
Kodak and Gallery Tel: (03) 6452 2355
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Dismal Swamp - Tarkine Adventures. Visit a seldom seen geological feature, a Blackwood sinkhole. Head toward Smithton, then turn left just before Armour Hardware and follow the signs. Quiet 50 minute drive through highly productive dairy country. The café, gift shop and interpretive centre are at the top, and walkways or a high-speed slide take you down to the swamp floor. Home to rare burrowing crayfish (You can’t see them live. Static display only ) The walkways are wheelchair and stroller friendly, or take the buggy ride. Slide operating hours are 11am to 12:30pm and 1:30pm to 3pm - 7 days a week. Admission is $20 per adult and $10 per child, this includes two slides and access to the swamp floor. Tel: 1300 720
507
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Woolnorth Pastoral and Windfarm. Check with the office in Smithton for times of tours, as these change with the seasons. About 55 minutes from Stanley. The only way to see the giant wind generators up close is on a tour, as there is no public access. Tel:
(03) 6452 1493 Mob: 0428 340 579
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Other Places we have found and enjoyed! The Don Railway at Don, near Devonport. This extensive railway museum holds a wealth of Tasmanian Railway Heritage. Century-old carriages evoke the era of genteel travel, with "Second Class” and “Ladies Only” compartments. (below left) Skilled volunteer staff have an ongoing renovation and restoration programme. Please support these guys in any way you can, as they do a fantastic job of preserving our railway heritage from the age of steam that would otherwise perish on some Asian steelworks' scrapheap! Don’t miss the trip along the banks of the Don River. Various rolling stock make the trip daily on the hour, and there is a tiny “Thomas” style steam locomotive due in service shortly. (as at June 2010) At just $30 for a family pass, don’t miss this opportunity to take your kids(or yourself!) back to a quieter, gentler era. (Left - This is us - Denis, Caroline, Francesca and Julia, by the old railmotor on which we did the trip.) (Below right - a Riley railmotor, beautifully restored and running) |
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Cape, Wynyard.
In early October, the tulips are at their absolute best. Actually, the blooms count for nothing. The plants are grown for the bulbs underground that are harvested and sold to gardeners world-wide. You can just drive around the Cape as we did here and view the several tulip farms over the fence, or you can invest a couple of dollars and visit the farm and bulb and cut-flower sheds. (We've done that too, in the past, and it is interesting - the first time! Now we drive around.) |
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Pioneer
village reconstruction at the
Fascinating collections of memorabilia from a bygone
era. Kids love it!Visitors Information Centre, Burnie. (Below and right)
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Latrobe. This historic town holds a surprise around every corner. Not just the main street has the historic buildings. Take the back streets and discover gems of Tasmania’s architectural Heritage. Don’t miss Reliquaire on the main street. This houses a cornucopia of dolls, giftware, period brassware and lights, science projects for kids, fancy dress, soaps, perfumes, sweet fudges, jewellery and more. Be prepared for total sensory overload when you enter! |
The Imaginarium at Devonport. Our kids love this place with its rolling programmes of science for kids. Check their website for the latest offering. Makers Workshops at Burnie. A fascinating insight into commerce past and present in and around Burnie. Also paper-making workshops where you can actually produce your own hand-made paper. |
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We hope that you have enjoyed this pictorial trip
around Stanley, plus a few other places that we love.
There is much much more to see and do around Circular Head. For off-road freaks, there are miles of old tracks that take you to abandoned mine sites. For railway buffs, there are remnants of the rail network that once served Circular Head, plus a history of timber tramways. If you dive, wrecks abound, but the water is cool in summer and cold in winter. Also, most wrecks are in areas of tidal rips or strong currents. Not for amateurs! Seek local knowledge or Guides. Fish abound in the pristine waters around Stanley. But, again, listen to local knowledge before venturing into uncharted waters. Darryl from the Seal Cruises does, from time to time take out fishing charters. Nothing regular, but it doesn't hurt to ask. If you are into art or craft, Circular Head has a mass of folk quietly beavering away in backyard workshops ... Wood turning, box makers, pen turners, quilters, spinners and weavers, furniture makers, miniaturist painters, burl carvers, wood carvers, landscape painters, leather workers, glass artists, jewellery makers, photographers, blacksmithing, ceramics. All, and more, are represented in galleries around Circular Head. Highfield Historic Site annually hosts a luthiers' workshop, where a small group make their own finely crafted acoustic guitars under expert supervision. And if you are a luthier, or a serious guitarist, living Stanley legend Johnny Turnbull makes exquisite resonator guitars, even spinning his own resonator plates. In his heyday, we are reliably told, Johnny was an amazing blue-grass guitarist. Even now, weakened by Parkinsons', his genius shows through in the occasional riff he'll play on one of his fine instruments. He will see visitors by appointment. And,
of course, we hope that you'll stay with us and enjoy Caroline's unique interpretation of a European villa or country house at ... The Bay View Guesthouse 16 - 20 Alexander Terrace Stanley Tasmania 7331 Tel: (03) 6458 1445 Web: www.bayviewguesthouse.com email: enquiries@bayviewguesthouse.com Please check out our main page www.bayviewguesthouse.com for lots of pics and details of our great little guesthouse. |
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